UNIVERSITY PARK, Pa. — For students like Clare Richey-Kaplan, the costume-production master of fine arts program in the Penn State College of Arts and Architecture’s School of Theatre offers highly specialized training for a skill that dates back centuries. Constructing a piece of clothing is a detailed and technical process from the initial meeting with a designer to the finishing stitch.
Kaplan works to master every step to produce a perfectly fitted and visually interesting garment that pleases the actors, designers and audience members.
“Knowing a little bit about everything is really important,” Kaplan said about working in theater. "You need to know about wigs, a little bit about makeup, a little bit about everything.”
Kaplan’s well-rounded skill set served her recently when she worked on the set of “Deadlock,” a Revolutionary War action-drama that was filmed in part near Philipsburg. It’s expected to release this year.
While Kaplan focuses on costume production, she knew enough about theatrical makeup to adapt her skills for the movie screen. She made do with the coffee, glycerin and black powder left on set for her to imitate dirt and grit on the actors’ faces, she said.
“What was really interesting was watching them shoot over and over again. Theater is not like that,” she said. “You have to get the makeup on, and it better stay on all night. If it doesn’t, you roll your eyes and you better do better tomorrow, right?”
Kaplan noted that there was more time for touch-ups on the movie set. Shooting for three days outside Philipsburg, Kaplan learned to trust the cameramen who would give her pointers on what looked right versus what needed more dirt or smudges based on how it showed through the camera lenses.
“It’s a lot of thinking on your feet, problem-solving, noticing how the makeup had to change a little bit if they were inside the house versus outside in full daylight,” she said.
The collaborative process was the best part of the experience, Kaplan said. It took a lot of trust, but she said it was easier knowing everyone wanted the project to succeed as much as she did.
She said the hands-on experience and working with actors was her favorite part, and she’d love to do more professional makeup in the future. While it’s a different process and skill set than her costume production, she said she always enjoys working with others and helping bring their visions to life.
“It’s a very visual process,” Kaplan said. “What I love is being given a drawing, talking to somebody and saying, ‘What do you want? How do you feel? How does the character feel?’ Following their vision through is just so much fun.”
Originally from Milwaukee, Wisconsin, Kaplan has been a part of the theater industry for most of her life. She didn’t plan to continue her artistic endeavors in college, but creativity was sewn into her DNA, she said.
A theatrical-sewing class she took her first semester at the University of Wisconsin–Milwaukee excited her more than any political science, history or psychology class and propelled her to a career that started when she graduated with a degree in costume construction.
“Working with my hands was so satisfying, I just couldn’t stop,” she said.
Kaplan started working in wardrobe at Northern Illinois University before becoming a stitcher in the costume shop. Soon enough, she found herself as costume shop manager. The new gig meant she had to teach theatrical makeup, which she didn’t study. But Kaplan was a quick learner — she taught herself and learned quickly on different productions and ended up teaching and working at the university for six years.
Having these skills and being adaptable is what led to Kaplan working on the “Deadlock” film, she said, and she also recently applied her makeup knowledge when she did Smeal College of Business Dean Corey Phelps’s 2024 Halloween makeup.
“If or when I go back into education, just having been on a film set gives me a lot more insight into what students might want to do and how I can advise them,” Kaplan said.
After finishing her master’s program at Penn State, Kaplan said she plans to return to the American Players Theatre in Wisconsin where she’s worked for 12 years.
“It’s really wonderful to go back to a place where they know me, that I can call home and they’ve been really good to me, bringing me up the ranks,” she said.
Hierarchy in costume shops is important for production. Kaplan said she’s moved from stitcher to "first hand" — a term for someone who cuts all the fabric — to associate draper. She now acts as a full draper.
Whether you’re an avid theater lover or not, Kaplan said, she encouraged everyone to come see Penn State Centre Stage performances.
“It’s a really accessible place to come see your first show,” said Kaplan, who is helping with costume production for “How to Succeed in Business without Really Trying,” to be held Feb. 25–March 7. “Musicals are a lot of fun. You don’t have to know anything about it, you don’t have to know the songs. Just come for the evening. Our students are incredibly talented.”